The (REAL) Greatest Watches of All Time: A Brutally Honest Countdown

 

Forget the tired lists regurgitating Rolex marketing and Patek hype. Yes I am sick of the same old same old "GOD TIER" being yelled at you OR "influencers" collaborating to flog you their "creations" (I am looking at your Christopher Ward!).

This is a definitive ranking of the watches that actually matter — the ones that pushed boundaries, created categories, and proved that greatness isn't measured in brand prestige alone. We're counting down from 10 to 1, celebrating innovation, craftsmanship, and watches that changed the game.

LET'S F***ING GOOOOOO!!!

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10: Roger W. Smith Series 4 Triple Date Moonphase

 

Figure: Series Four displays hours, minutes and seconds with a triple calendar and moon phase, housed in a 41mm case (Credit: https://rwsmithwatches.com/watches)

We begin our countdown with a watch that represents the pinnacle of independent British watchmaking. Roger W. Smith, the only apprentice of legendary watchmaker George Daniels (inventor of the co-axial escapement), crafts every component of his watches by hand on the Isle of Man.

The Series 4 is a masterclass in solving problems elegantly. Smith invented the "travelling date aperture" — a pronged indicator that orbits the dial's outer edge — specifically to prevent the traditional date hand from obscuring other dial information (I would know this issue cause I own the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chronograph Pointer Date). The result is a triple calendar (day, date, month) with moonphase that's both technically sophisticated and supremely legible.

Every Series 4 features Smith's refined co-axial escapement, hand-guilloché dials, and finishing that rivals any Swiss manufacture. With only around 100 watches made under the R.W. Smith name by 2020, these pieces represent the ultimate in artisan watchmaking — where one man's obsessive dedication creates something truly unrepeatable.

What makes it great: Pure craftsmanship. Everything is made by hand. George Daniels' legacy lives on.

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9: Longines 13ZN Flyback Chronograph

Figure: Longines 13ZN in a waterproof steel case (Photo Credit: Hodinkee)

Before Longines became a mid-tier brand, they were a premier manufacture rivaling Patek Philippe. The caliber 13ZN, produced from 1936 to the early 1970s, proves it.

This was the world's first wristwatch chronograph with a flyback function — allowing pilots to reset and restart timing without stopping the chronograph first. While that might sound basic today, it was revolutionary engineering in the 1930s. The 13ZN's design was so advanced and well-executed that it remained in production for nearly four decades. FOUR DECADES!

These watches saw military service worldwide and represent an era when Longines focused exclusively on perfecting chronograph movements. Finding an unmolested example today is increasingly difficult, as many have been "restored" or franken-watched over the decades. But an original 13ZN in good condition is a piece of genuine horological history — proof that the best doesn't always wear a Genevan poinçon.

What makes it great: First flyback chronograph. In-house excellence. Military heritage that actually matters.

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8: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph

 

Figure: the Lange Datograph (Credit: Hodinkee)

In 1999, a German company barely nine years old walked into the Basel watch fair and changed watchmaking forever. While Patek Philippe was still using Lemania ebauches for their chronographs, Lange unveiled the Datograph with the fully in-house caliber L951.1.

The movement wasn't just in-house — it was a flyback chronograph with a column-wheel, precisely jumping minute counter, and Lange's signature outsize date. Philippe Dufour called it "the best chronograph movement ever made." When Dufour says that, you listen.

The Datograph's dial layout is pure geometry: an equilateral triangle formed by the oversized date and two subdials creates perfect visual balance. It proved that German watchmaking had returned to the highest echelons of the craft, and it forced the entire Swiss industry to scramble toward in-house production.

This watch resurrected East German watchmaking from Communist ruins and reminded everyone that excellence can come from anywhere — even a small town in Saxony.

What makes it great: Resurrected a national industry. In-house flyback perfection. Made the Swiss panic.

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7: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (1953)

Figure: The Fifty Fathoms (credit: Time and Tide Watches)

Here's something Rolex doesn't want you to know: Blancpain made the first modern dive watch.

The Fifty Fathoms debuted in 1953 — a full year before the Submariner. Developed with French Navy combat divers, it featured a rotating bezel with a locking mechanism, a moisture indicator, and proper water resistance. It was the Submariner before the Submariner existed.

While Rolex gets all the credit (and charges accordingly), the Fifty Fathoms actually innovated. It created the template that every dive watch since has followed: rotating elapsed-time bezel, high contrast dial, luminous markers, and serious water resistance.

The Submariner might be more famous, but the Fifty Fathoms got there first and did it better. In a just world, this would be the dive watch everyone talks about. But we don't live in a just world — we live in one where Rolex marketing departments have unlimited budgets.

What makes it great: First modern dive watch. Beat Rolex to market. Actual innovation, not just refinement.

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6: Grand Seiko SBGA211 "Snowflake"

 

Figure: The Grand Seiko SBGA211 and the 9R65 Movement (Credit: Grand Seiko USA)

Spring Drive. Two words that make Swiss watchmakers uncomfortable and shift uncomfortably in their chronometry seats! 

The Snowflake represents Grand Seiko's Spring Drive technology — a hybrid movement that uses a mainspring like a mechanical watch but regulates timekeeping with a quartz crystal. The result? The smooth, sweeping seconds hand of a mechanical watch with an accuracy of ±1 second per day (or ±15 seconds per month).

That textured dial, inspired by snow on Mount Iwate, showcases Japanese aesthetic sensibility. The zaratsu-polished case demonstrates finishing that rivals anything from Switzerland. And the Spring Drive movement proves that innovation didn't stop in the 1970s.

This watch reminds us that horology isn't just about preserving 18th-century technology — it's about pushing boundaries. The Swiss focused on mechanical purity while Grand Seiko asked, "What if we could make something better?"

What makes it great: Spring Drive innovation. Japanese finishing excellence. Proves innovation matters more than tradition.

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5: Breitling 806 Navitimer Cosmonaute

Figure: Breitling Navitimer 809 Cosmonaute (Credit: Chrono24)

In 1962, astronaut Scott Carpenter wore a Breitling Navitimer with a 24-hour dial during his Mercury-Atlas 7 mission. That watch became the Cosmonaute.

The 24-hour dial made sense for space travel, where "day" and "night" lose meaning when you're orbiting Earth every 90 minutes. The slide-rule bezel — a functional tool for pilots to calculate fuel consumption, airspeed, and distance — proved useful even in zero gravity.

While everyone obsesses over the Speedmaster's moon landing, the Cosmonaute quietly made history as one of the first Swiss watches in space. It represents Breitling when they were serious tool-watch makers rather than fashion-forward marketers.

The 806 Cosmonaute with manual-wind movement is pure 1960s functionality — no date window to break symmetry, no unnecessary complications, just tools for professionals doing dangerous work.

What makes it great: 24-hour dial for space travel. Slide-rule complication actually used. Space history without the hype.

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4: Zenith El Primero (1969)

  

Figure: Zenith's El Primero Original 1969 with the legendary in-house El Primero hi-beat movement (Credit: Hondinkee)

The integrated automatic chronograph that saved the Rolex Daytona. That's right, I said it! 

Zenith's El Primero, introduced in 1969, operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour — meaning it can measure time to 1/10th of a second. It was revolutionary then and remains impressive now. The high-beat movement delivers exceptional accuracy and that ultra-smooth chronograph hand sweep.

Here's the kicker: when Rolex finally updated the Daytona in 1988 with an automatic movement, they used the El Primero. Sure, they detuned it and slapped their name on it, but the Daytona's success from the '90s onward? That's Zenith's engineering.

Yet Rolex gets all the glory while Zenith remains overlooked. This is one of the great injustices in watchmaking. The El Primero deserves recognition not just for its technical achievement, but for proving that the best movements can come from unexpected places.

What makes it great: 36,000 vph high-beat movement. Saved the Daytona. Technical excellence over marketing.

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3: Citizen Chronomaster AQ4080-52L

Figure: The GADA of all GADAS! (Credit: Watchcrunch)

Wait — a quartz watch in the top 3 of all time? Is there a bias baked into this part of the ranking.. OF COURSE! .. I own this watch! 

Absolutely.

This Citizen achieves ±5 seconds per year accuracy. Not per day. Not per month. Per year. It has a perpetual calendar programmed to 2100, twin coaxial counters, and Japanese finishing that shame watches costing ten times more.

The Chronomaster proves that horology isn't just about mechanical movements — it's about precision, craftsmanship, and pushing technical boundaries. While Swiss brands were busy marketing "in-house mechanical excellence," Citizen was actually innovating.

This watch costs a fraction of Swiss haute horology pieces while delivering superior accuracy and comparable finishing. It's a reminder that the watch industry's obsession with mechanical movements is about romance and tradition, not performance.

If you dismiss this because it's quartz, you've fallen for marketing. Real watch enthusiasts appreciate technical achievement regardless of power source.

What makes it great: ±5 seconds/year accuracy. Perpetual calendar. Proves quartz deserves respect.

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2: Longines Zulu Time (1925)

Figure: THE Original Travel Time! 

Before Rolex claimed it invented the GMT watch, Longines was making dual-time complications in 1925.

The Zulu Time represents early innovation in solving a fundamental problem for global travelers and aviators: tracking multiple time zones simultaneously. This was cutting-edge complication work in an era when most watches just told local time.

Longines was a serious innovator before they became a mall brand. The Zulu Time proves it. While this watch doesn't get the recognition of the Rolex GMT-Master (which came three decades later), it represents genuine pioneering work when aviation and global travel were still new concepts.

This is the kind of watch that separates collectors who know history from those who just know brand names. It's a reminder that many "firsts" attributed to famous brands were actually done earlier by companies history has forgotten.

What makes it great: Early GMT complication from 1925. Pre-Rolex innovation. Historical significance beyond hype.

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1: Seiko 6139 "Pogue"

Figure: The First Automatic Chronograph in Space

The world's first automatic chronograph in space. The watch that proved Japan could beat Switzerland at their own game. The timepiece that democratized complicated watchmaking.

In 1969 — the same year the Swiss finally figured out automatic chronographs — Seiko released the 6139 with vertical clutch, column wheel, and day-date complication. While Swiss brands charged luxury prices, Seiko made it affordable.

NASA astronaut William Pogue wore his personal Seiko 6139 during the Skylab 4 mission in 1973-74, giving it genuine space heritage without requiring NASA certification or million-dollar marketing campaigns. It was just a good watch that worked.

The 6139 represents everything this list celebrates: innovation over heritage, technical achievement over brand prestige, accessibility over exclusivity. It proved that excellence doesn't require a Swiss pedigree or a five-figure price tag.

While the Omega Speedmaster gets endless limited editions and marketing fatigue, the Pogue quietly changed watchmaking forever. It forced the Swiss to acknowledge that Japan wasn't just making cheap alternatives — they were making better watches.

What makes it great: First automatic chronograph in space. Affordable innovation. Beat the Swiss. Changed everything.

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Final Thoughts

This list deliberately excludes the watches you'd expect: no Rolex Daytona riding Zenith's coattails, no Speedmaster beaten to death by Omega marketing, no Nautilus with its awkward "elephant ears."

Instead, I am celebrating watches that:

• Actually innovated (not just refined)
• Came from unexpected places (Japan, Germany, Isle of Man)
• Proved that price doesn't equal quality
• Changed the industry rather than just following trends
• Represent genuine achievement over marketing budgets

The greatest watches aren't always the most expensive or the most hyped. Sometimes they're the ones that pushed boundaries, solved problems elegantly, and proved that excellence can come from anywhere.

That's what makes them great.

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What's your take on this list? Disagree violently? Think I am spot on? Let me know in the comments.

Chronomaster: For Those Who’ve Outgrown the Horological Daycare

 Ah, the Citizen AQ4080-52L Chronomaster—the horological equivalent of a katana forged in the tears of Swiss watch execs and polished with the collective disbelief of Seiko fanboys. Strap in (with the stainless steel bracelet, naturally), because this isn’t just a review. This is a love letter to the quiet assassin of the watch world, delivered with the subtlety of a samurai in a room full of snoring Swiss cows.

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The Face That Launched a Thousand “Wait, That’s Quartz?” Comments

Let’s talk about that deep blue dial first. Citizen didn’t just settle for "blue"—they summoned the entire Pacific Ocean, convinced it to shimmer with restrained elegance, and said, "Hold this for me." The indices? Hand-applied, mirror-polished, and aligned with a precision that makes Seiko’s QA team collectively break out in hives. (Don’t worry, lads, I’m sure the crooked chapter ring on your $5,000 Presage is “part of the charm.”)

The Chronomaster doesn’t scream. It doesn’t beg for attention. It just sits there, silently flexing its ±5 seconds per year spec, while the Speedy crowd frantically winds their precious Moonwatch for the fifth time this week. (“But the history!” Yes, and so is the 1960s accuracy.)

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Movement: HAQ? More like HELL YES.

Behold the A060 movement, Citizen’s answer to the question, “What if quartz, but with samurai-level discipline?” Not only does it regulate itself thermally (that’s "uses science" for those playing at home), it also has a perpetual calendar. That’s right, this thing will still know the date in 2100, when most Speedmasters will be buried in watchmaker backlogs awaiting “a full service.”

No winding. No fuss. No power reserve anxiety. Just deadly precision.

You see, this isn’t quartz. This is High Accuracy Quartz, or HAQ. And owning one of these is a bit like being in a secret club—no one on the street knows, but the guy across the room with the Grand Seiko SBGH001 nods at you like you both know the cheat code to horological happiness.

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Build Quality: Samurai Steel vs Fondue Forks

The stainless steel case of the AQ4080-52L isn’t just steel. It’s Citizen’s Super Titanium™ cousin in disguise, polished and finished so finely it could make a Swiss case polisher throw down their cape and sob into a glass of overpriced Riesling. The case finishing is so sharp you could use it to slice through Seiko’s marketing materials and still have enough edge left to sever TAG Heuer’s relevance in the 2020s.

And that bracelet? A masterclass in tight tolerances, silent articulation, and “you actually bothered to think about the end links?” design. Try swapping this out for a NATO—go on, I dare you. The Chronomaster doesn’t need your war surplus straps. It’s already won the battle.

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The Swiss Industry: In Desperate Need of a Nap

Meanwhile, over in Switzerland, some guy is still charging $4,000 for a Sellita-powered homage to a thing a guy wore on a mountain once. The SISS (Swiss Industrial Subtle Suckers) consortium still believes you’ll pay triple the price because they sprinkled some Geneva fairy dust on a rotor and called it “luxury.” Chronometer-certified? Cute. Try being accurate without the pomp. Try being reliable without an entire cottage industry of “authorized service centers.”

Citizen just builds a better watch and doesn’t even bother to advertise it. Probably because they’re too busy testing it against atomic clocks and quantum-level smugness.

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"But You Gotta Have a Speedy in the Collection!"

Do I? Do I really? Because I’ve got a Chronomaster that keeps better time, is finished better, requires less maintenance, and doesn’t rely on Apollo-era mythologizing to justify its existence. And I’m not alone.

The real flex? Quiet confidence. The kind of wrist presence that doesn’t shout, but whispers in haiku.

Time never stumbles.
Precision walks like silence.
Chronomaster knows.

This is a watch for people who actually care about watches—not for those who just want to be seen caring about watches. It’s the anti-hype watch in a world of limited-edition FOMO-fueled nonsense.

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Oh the Price! How much??

Ah yes, the price—that delightful little surprise that makes most people pause, squint, and ask, “Wait, it’s a quartz and it costs how much?” To which the proper response is: “Yes, it’s quartz. And it’s worth every goddamn yen.”

You see, paying ~$2,000–3,000 for a Citizen Chronomaster might seem outrageous—until you realize you’ve been gaslit by decades of Swiss marketing into thinking accuracy, finishing, and actual technological innovation aren’t worth paying for unless they're wrapped in an outdated escapement and a Geneva logo. People will happily drop $15,000 on a watch from the Holy Trinity (Patek, AP, Vacheron) that still drifts 10 seconds a day, needs babying, and comes with a six-month service queue and a smug boutique clerk in a velvet suit.

Meanwhile, Citizen’s Chronomaster just wakes up every morning and destroys time itself. It doesn’t need to be coddled. It doesn’t care about your hand-wound rituals or your Vallée de Joux voodoo. It cares about being right, all the time, without flexing or failing.

So yes, it costs more than your average “Swiss Made” LARP piece with a third-party movement and three lines of French on the dial. Because this isn’t a fashion statement. This is the future in a case—with Zaratsu-lite polishing, thermocompensation, and a perpetual calendar that’ll still be ticking when your Royal Oak is back in the spa for the fifth time this decade.

This isn’t quartz.
This is what Swiss luxury wishes it was, if it ever got over itself.

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Final Thoughts: For Those Who Know, Know

The Citizen AQ4080-52L Chronomaster is the horological equivalent of finding out the quiet kid in class is secretly a martial arts master. It doesn’t need to be loud, it doesn’t need to be vintage, and it doesn’t need to be Swiss. It just is—pure, relentless, beautifully understated excellence.

So go ahead. Let the Speedy cult continue their moon cosplay. Let the Swiss keep churning out design-by-committee divers with seven lines of text on the dial.

You? You’ll be wearing a Chronomaster. And you’ll be on time.

Every. Damn. Year.

Tick-Tock, Tickled Fancy: The Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono – A Watch That Outdials Its Rivals

A watch review longer than most people’s attention spans, and hopefully a bit more entertaining than the average product description. But then again, when you’re dealing with a watch like the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono, why settle for anything less?

There’s an old saying that time is money, and if that’s the case, then the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is the gold-stuffed piggy bank you never knew you needed. I’m not just saying that because I’ve fallen head over heels for its dazzling array of dials, but because this watch does everything except maybe tap dance on your wrist—though, with a bit of imagination, you might believe it could.

Before we dive deep into the horological wonders of this wrist-mounted Swiss army knife, let’s get one thing straight: this watch isn’t for the faint of heart or the weak of wrist. With a 40mm stainless steel case, the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is a hunk of finely tuned engineering, wrapped up in a suit of armor that would make any medieval knight green with envy. It’s not heavy, per se, but you’ll definitely feel its presence—like a distinguished butler who always knows when to hand you a freshly brewed cup of tea.

A Dial with a Double Life

Let’s talk about the face of this beauty, because the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono isn’t just a pretty...face. No, this watch has what we in the industry like to call "multi-dial syndrome." It's the kind of watch that stares back at you with more eyes than a spider, each one spinning tales of time that make you wonder if you’re secretly Doctor Who.

The silvered barleycorn dial is so elegant you might be tempted to pour milk on it and call it breakfast. The blue steel hands are sharp enough to slice through your most stubborn excuses for being late, and the Arabic numerals stand at attention like soldiers on parade—disciplined, organized, and ready for action.

But it’s the subdials that steal the show. We’ve got a 24-hour indicator, a moonphase display, and chronograph counters that make the watch look busier than a cat in a room full of laser pointers. It’s like someone took all the best parts of different watches, shoved them into a blender, and then served up this delightful horological smoothie.

And just when you think it couldn’t get any better, there’s the date display, which circles the dial like a cat eyeing a fishbowl. If you ever get bored (unlikely), you can spend hours watching the date hand tick its way around the perimeter. It’s like having a tiny, sophisticated carousel on your wrist—minus the circus music and overpriced popcorn.

Chronograph Chaos and Moonphase Magic

If you’re the type who likes to measure time down to the second, or if you just enjoy pressing buttons, the chronograph function will be your new best friend. The pushers on the side of the case are satisfyingly clicky, like the world’s most luxurious fidget spinner. One moment you’re timing your morning coffee brew, and the next you’re calculating how long it takes your cat to knock over everything on your desk. 

Then there’s the moonphase display—a feature that’s either completely useless or utterly fascinating, depending on whether you’re an astronomer or a werewolf. Personally, I find it charming, in a “why not?” kind of way. The moonphase is tucked away in a subdial at 6 o’clock, staring up at you like a miniature night sky. It’s perfect for those nights when you’re wondering whether it’s a full moon outside, but can’t be bothered to look out the window.

Bracelet and Build: A Lesson in Overengineering

The bracelet is a thing of beauty—or a medieval torture device, depending on your wrist size. Made of stainless steel, it’s as shiny as a disco ball and almost as attention-grabbing. The links are polished to a mirror finish, which means you can check your reflection anytime you need to fix your hair or practice your Blue Steel look.

Adjusting the bracelet, however, is a bit like trying to solve a Rubik’s Cube blindfolded. You’ll either get it perfect on the first try (unlikely) or spend the next hour fiddling with the links while questioning your life choices. But once it’s on, the fit is snug, secure, and as comfortable as you could hope for with a watch that could double as a set of brass knuckles.

Speaking of overengineering, let’s talk about the sapphire crystal. It’s anti-reflective and scratch-resistant, which is a fancy way of saying it’s tougher than your ex’s heart. You could probably use it to fend off a small army of ninjas, though I wouldn’t recommend testing that theory—ninjas are notoriously unpredictable.

The Movement: A Tiny Orchestra of Perfection

Now, let’s get under the hood and talk about the movement, because the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono isn’t just a pretty face—it’s got brains, too. The L678 automatic movement is the kind of thing that makes watch enthusiasts swoon and non-watch enthusiasts scratch their heads in confusion.

It’s a self-winding mechanical movement, which means it runs on the power of your own wrist movements. It’s like having a tiny orchestra inside your watch, playing a symphony every time you flick your wrist. The power reserve is a solid 48 hours, which is perfect for those weekends when you decide to wear something else and then immediately regret it.

The movement is visible through the exhibition case back, so you can watch the gears turn and the magic happen. It’s mesmerizing, like watching a tiny Swiss ballet where everyone is always in sync and nobody ever drops the ball—unlike your last group project in school.

Timekeeping Accuracy: Close Enough for Government Work

In terms of accuracy, the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is about as reliable as your grandmother’s cooking. It might not win any COSC certifications, but it’s good enough that you won’t miss the bus—or the rocket launch, for that matter. Expect it to run within a few seconds per day, which is close enough unless you’re timing a space mission. And let’s be honest, if you’re timing a space mission, you probably have bigger problems than whether your watch is a few seconds fast.

Final Thoughts: A Watch with a Personality (and Maybe a Bit of an Ego)

So, what’s the verdict on the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono? Well, it’s a watch that knows exactly what it is: a statement piece with a side of functionality. It’s the kind of watch that would walk into a party and immediately start telling everyone about its fascinating subdials, and you’d still want to hear every word because it’s just that charming.

It’s not a watch for everyone—especially if you prefer your timepieces simple and understated. But if you’re the type who enjoys a bit of flair, a dash of complexity, and a whole lot of Swiss craftsmanship, then this might just be your perfect match.

Sure, it might be a bit flashy, a tad overcomplicated, and maybe even a little too proud of itself—but aren’t we all, deep down? The Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is a watch with personality, and in a world of bland, cookie-cutter timepieces, that’s something worth celebrating.

So, strap it on, adjust those pushers, and get ready to tell time in style. And who knows? Maybe, just maybe, you’ll find yourself timing the perfect moment to show off that moonphase display. After all, what’s life without a little lunar lunacy?

Challenge: Name me a higher-value Swiss watch with the number of complications! 

Rolex releases Invicta Homage and other highlights of Watches and Wonders 2024

 I have always been taught to start with the positives, so that is what I shall do. I will be the first one to admit that I have not seen the watches I am about to critique in person. So please add in the photographic fudge factor. And also remember: Dreams are free

Note: All pictures are courtesy of Watches and Wonders 2024 website

W&W2024 Winners: 

1. IWC: This one is an absolute no brainer. The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar is a home run. To be THAT complicated and look clean and classy is simply breathtaking. The world's first secular perpetual calendar is the sort of flex that we can only dream of from Rolex (with the hype around discontinuation and model releases) and here you have IWC that has just pointed at their systems engineering team, given them a problem space and let the magic happen! You will never buy the watch to check whether in the year 2100, the leap year is missed, you buy it cause you can! 

2. A Lange & Söhne: Gave IWC a close run for the top spot. This list would have been incomplete without the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honyegold "Lumen". The green and the gold just works! I suppose the complications are endless (do we expect any less from the likes of Lange?): flyback chronograph, jumping minute counter and perpetual calendar. Would I like to own one? sure! Will I? Most certainly not if I plan to stay married! Limited to 50 pieces, it is equally as rare as it is expensive but it is a thing of beauty! 

3. Jaeger-LeCoultre: Yes Yes I have expensive taste! Duometre Chronograph Moon is spectacular on the best of days. Does it look like a drink joker? sure! but what is life without a few quirks right? Sometimes you just need a watch from a brand that simply can live up to its name! And that is what JLC has done here! 

4. Reusability of Denim clothes: Thank you Patek! I have been looking far and wide for solutions to my old worn denim clothes. Now I know what to do with them! Spare bands for my Patek 5980. In the spirit of channeling my inner Oris, I can recycle clothes now! woohoo! 

5. Piaget: I have never been a fan of Piaget. But then again that might be a result of my ignorance of what they bring to the table. But when you bring out the world's thinnest tourbillon you deserve a mention. At 2mm thick (or shall I say thin) and $US400,000, it will also leave your wallet a lot thinner! But let's face it, it is a thing of beauty! Well done Piaget! 

 

Watches/Brands that Need to Improve

Yes Yes, I didn't want to call them losers. Wanted to put a positive spin on it! 

1. Rolex: Kudos to Rolex. They have managed to release an Invicta Homage! The all gold Deep Sea is downright hideous. It lacked imagination, taste, and classiness. Their other releases were underwhelming, to say the least, be it the 1908 or the GMT Master 2. And just when you thought you were done, Rolex hits you with the diamond bezel Daytona! Shocker! 

Will these models sell well? Of course! It says Rolex on the dial and the fan boys will find an excuse to hype it up so that their money is safe! 

2. Tudor: Given they are Rolex's little brother, therefore the scale of their disappointment should also be little brother level. Where Rolex chose to release an Invicta homage, Tudor decided they would release cheaper Rolex homages! Just seems like the photocopier along with the head of marketing are the hardest-working employees at Tudor! 

3. Hublot: enough said right? Or shall I say more? No? thanks! You have saved me a little bit of emotional bandwidth! absolutely hideous and let's call it like we see it, Hublot and it's reputation does not actually help matters here! 

4. Tag Heuer: Oh that's right! That is exactly what I was looking for! a Richard Mille movement in a Monaco so that it was more affordable? What's that? it is limited? what's that? it is six figures? What's that? it looks like a coffee table on one's wrist? What? it is a Ciga Design Homage? ok then.. ! moving on! 

5. Bremont: Their nose dive continues. None of their watches will excite you and a few of them look like overpriced citizen pilot watches. And the prices only seem to be going one way. Either the product portfolio needs to be revamped OR that honour should be bestowed to their upper management. Harsh I know but there is nothing exciting about them at the moment. 

Your challenge: Add to my list! Or refute it! Either way: happy judging! ✊Judge away! I will never call you a dumbass like Weh did for questioning Rolex releases! 

A Modern Take on a Vintage Masterpiece: The Tissot Heritage Navigator

Did I need to buy this watch? No! Was it a moment of weakness? Hell yes! Do I regret the purchase? Absolutely NOT! LOOK AT IT! My fellow watch lovers (or soon-to-be watch lovers) let me introduce you to the Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary COSC!

I know, I am a little late with this review, but hey! I only got the watch in August 2023 so I gave myself 6 months to truly get an appreciation for this watch! 

History and Significance: The Tissot Heritage Navigator Automatic 160th Anniversary COSC pays homage to Tissot's illustrious 160-year history of watchmaking excellence. Inspired by vintage Tissot timepieces, this special edition celebrates the brand's heritage while incorporating modern features and innovations.

Sizing (including wearability on the wrist): The case diameter is 43mm with a lug to lug of 51.5mm. Yes it is big, flat and long (no no no dirty jokes here!). But on my toothpick wrists (shown below) it looks surprisingly good! It is 9.6mm thick which makes it a perfect candidate to slide under your cuff and look seriously classy! So in my opinion: This size makes it suitable for a variety of wrist sizes, offering a comfortable fit without feeling oversized or cumbersome.

Whether paired with a formal suit or casual attire, the Heritage Navigator exudes versatility, effortlessly transitioning from the boardroom to the weekend getaway. Its timeless design and understated elegance make it a versatile accessory for any occasion, adding a touch of sophistication to any ensemble.

Grade: 7.5/10

Movement: Powered by a COSC-certified automatic movement, the Heritage Navigator ensures exceptional accuracy and reliability. This high-precision movement not only upholds Tissot's reputation for precision timekeeping but also reflects the brand's commitment to quality craftsmanship. The see-through case back with the gold-plated rotor only adds to the sophistication and I have caught myself many a time just flipping the watch over and staring at it. I do understand that this watch is around 10 years old but in today's market folks might be turned off by the 40-hour power reserve. 

Grade: 9/10

Strap: The Heritage Navigator comes with a premium leather strap on a deployant buckle, adding to its vintage charm and sophistication. Crafted with attention to detail, the strap ensures both comfort and durability, making it suitable for daily wear. Additionally, its quick-release mechanism allows for easy customization with alternative straps, further enhancing versatility.

Strap: 9/10

Case and Dial: 

At first glance, the Heritage Navigator exudes sophistication with its refined design elements. The 43mm stainless steel case strikes a perfect balance between classic proportions and contemporary aesthetics. The polished finish accentuates the watch's luxurious appeal, while the intricate detailing on the bezel adds a touch of refinement.

The GMT function allows travelers to track multiple time zones simultaneously, making it an ideal companion for globetrotters and jet-setters. The rotating inner bezel, operated by the crown at 2 o'clock, enables users to adjust the city ring, providing quick and convenient access to different time zones. This feature, coupled with the GMT hand, ensures effortless timekeeping wherever your adventures take you. And I must mention here that it has Mumbai and Calcutta on the city ring! Hook line and sinker! I cannot think of another watch at this price point with that dial layout! 

Grade:10/10

Conclusion: In conclusion, the Tissot Heritage Navigator Automatic 160th Anniversary COSC is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of Tissot's enduring legacy and commitment to excellence. With its blend of heritage-inspired design, precision movement, and exceptional comfort, it's a watch that not only tells time but also tells a story—a story of craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless elegance.

Plus I CANNOT stress this enough! My wife said: "It is a different looking watch....".. THAT IS IT!! it is now part of the permanent collection! 

Overall Grade: 35.5/40 

10,000th Review of the Tissot PRX

I have been told my reviews are too long (how dare you)! so here is my attempt to shorten them and become more to the point and succinct! I will be changing the grading business where each category will be out of 10 and a total score out of 40. And yes, this will be 10,000th Tissot PRX review but I wanted to have a crack at reviewing a truly sentimental watch! 

Sizing (including wearability on the wrist):

This integrated bracelet offering from Tissot has a case diameter of 40mm. Lug to lug is difficult to measure with the solid protruding end links. So if you measure out to the fixed links, it is 50mm. After removing the links it wears very nicely on the wrist so much so that the watch even slides perfectly under a business shirt. Forget lug width. It does not have one! but folks are starting to offer straps. Artisan Straps is one of them (PRX Artisan Straps Link). 

Grade: 8/10

Movement: Yes yes yes it has plastic bits. But millions of PRX (I assume) have been bought and worn and I am yet to see/hear a lot of complaints. I have the version with the Powermatic 80 providing 80h of power reserve with a Nicachron balance hairspring. And this ensures a fairly impressive antimagnetic performance. Simply said the feeling of putting it down on a Friday and then picking it back up on Monday for work and it still ticking away is just AWESOME. Accuracy for the 8 months I have had this watch has also been awesome. It is running on average at +2s/day. I also like Tissot's transparency with the replacement cost of the movement on their website. So total cost of ownership is also calculable.

Grade: 9/10

Bracelet: This is the start of the show for me! You may want to put or buy this watch on a strap, but the watch does NOT work the same without the bracelet. With a butterfly clasp, it is the star of the show just the way it shines when the light hits it. And be it indoor lighting or sunlight, it really elevates the watch into the accessible luxury realm. It is also very comfortable to wear and it does not declare war on your arm hair.

Grade: 10/10 

Case and Dial: The colour of the dial is ice blue and it is the same colour as my wife's dad's first car. No wonder this watch is more on her wrist than mine! Need I say more? OK I will give it a shot. The patterned dial adds depth and texture to the dial that elevates this watch to a new stratosphere. Simple hands and a white date dial make this watch truly a great homage to its 1970s predecessor. Simple text makes the dial look uncluttered (take notes Rolex!). To conclude: clean, simple, and classy.

Grade: 9/10

Overall Grade: 36 out of 40. 

What are your alternatives? Christopher Ward, Rolex OysterQuartz, AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus, Nivada Grenchen F77 OR  Zenith Defy Skyline. And I am sure I am missing a few but none of the alternatives are as accessible and look as luxurious and classy as the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

Greatest Seiko Ever

Even my wife loves this watch! That's right ..... She likes a watch I bought. That fact alone does 50% of the heavy lifting for this Seiko to be anointed as the greatest Seiko of all time in my books! 

Is everyone done with my hyperbolies? OK, awesome. Now let us get the facts out of the way first. The technical specifications go a long way not only to elevate your wrist game but make it suitable for wrists of multiple sizes.

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Case Diameter: 42mm (wears smaller)

Case Thickness: 13mm

Band Material: Stainless Steel

Band Width: 21mm

Movement: Quartz

Caliber: 7T62

Chronograph Function: Yes

Alarm Function: Yes

Slide Rule Bezel: Yes

Dial Color: Black

Crystal: Hardlex

Water Resistance: 200 meters (660 feet)

Luminous Hands and Markers: Yes

Clasp: Deployment Clasp

Height: 12mm tall 

Lug to Lug: 44mm

Movement: 

The movement is a 7T62 grab-and-go quartz movement. Frequency of 32,768 Hz and boasts and accuracy of plus minus 15 seconds a month. And let me tell you it runs a LOT better than the specifications state. Although the stated battery life is 3 years, I am 4 years into owning this watch and I am yet to require a battery change. But my favourite function has to be the second time zone function. If you pull out the crown to the outermost position and press the bottom pusher, you can set the watch to any time you want, which really helps me set the time to Indian timezone. And yes that is important to me cause not only is that my home country, but it is one of those half-hour timezones which makes it awkward to track using a GMT hand.

Grade: A+

Case: 

Stainless steel case with 2 screw-down pushers which help add to the 200m water resistance. Brushed lugs and a polished case, create a wonderful contrast. Two screw-down pushers at the 2 and 4 o'clock position along with a screw-down crown give this watch an impressive 200m WR (which is insane for an aviation watch like the Flighty). So it has combined the best of both worlds, a pilot's watch and a dive watch. The bezel is obvious and made of stainless steel with an aluminum insert. The sawtooth edge makes it easy to grab and rotate. The friction is also perfect for the bi-directional bezel. The colorways on the bezel match perfectly with the colours on the dial. Are you ever going to use the bezel? Most likely no. But better to have such a bezel and not need it, rather than needing it and not having it right? 

Grade: A

Bracelet: 

This is probably the weakest link of this watch. With the polished center links, it is an absolute scratch magnet. But that is not the worst of it, cause I always love to wear my watches on the bracelet, it is the second link away from lugs that really sticks out like a sore thumb and it is NOT smooth at all as you will see in the pic below. Another negative is the bracelet does not taper at all. Does not bug me too much but I can see why it might frustrate a few. However, there are 4 holes of micro-adjust and it is super comfortable, so if you can get over that one less-than-pretty link in the bracelet, it is awesome! 

Grade: B+

Dial: 

This is the start of the show! The busyness and the layering of the dial is simply spectacular. Together with the bezel, and the inner chapter ring, the number of functions available for you to play around with is an overkill. But it is not an overkill in a negative sense. It might look really busy but, somehow the use of the real estate is clean and classy. Even the details around the applied Seiko logo, the applied hour markers, and even the polished hands of the subdials is simply perfect. The design of the dial makes the Flighty perfect for a boardroom and also the beach! yes, that is the range of this watch! The hardlex crystal and the distortions it creates are also mesmerizing. And the icing is the yellow tachymeter and 12-clock subdial. Just adds a pop to the watch! 

Grade: A+ (triple plus)

Overall Grade: A. Buy it while they are still available for reasonable prices! You will not regret it! Want a tool watch for all occasions! SNA411 is the answer!