Showing posts with label Automatic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Automatic. Show all posts

Friday, August 23, 2024

Tick-Tock, Tickled Fancy: The Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono – A Watch That Outdials Its Rivals

A watch review longer than most people’s attention spans, and hopefully a bit more entertaining than the average product description. But then again, when you’re dealing with a watch like the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono, why settle for anything less?

There’s an old saying that time is money, and if that’s the case, then the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is the gold-stuffed piggy bank you never knew you needed. I’m not just saying that because I’ve fallen head over heels for its dazzling array of dials, but because this watch does everything except maybe tap dance on your wrist—though, with a bit of imagination, you might believe it could.

Before we dive deep into the horological wonders of this wrist-mounted Swiss army knife, let’s get one thing straight: this watch isn’t for the faint of heart or the weak of wrist. With a 40mm stainless steel case, the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is a hunk of finely tuned engineering, wrapped up in a suit of armor that would make any medieval knight green with envy. It’s not heavy, per se, but you’ll definitely feel its presence—like a distinguished butler who always knows when to hand you a freshly brewed cup of tea.

A Dial with a Double Life



Let’s talk about the face of this beauty, because the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono isn’t just a pretty...face. No, this watch has what we in the industry like to call "multi-dial syndrome." It's the kind of watch that stares back at you with more eyes than a spider, each one spinning tales of time that make you wonder if you’re secretly Doctor Who.

The silvered barleycorn dial is so elegant you might be tempted to pour milk on it and call it breakfast. The blue steel hands are sharp enough to slice through your most stubborn excuses for being late, and the Arabic numerals stand at attention like soldiers on parade—disciplined, organized, and ready for action.

But it’s the subdials that steal the show. We’ve got a 24-hour indicator, a moonphase display, and chronograph counters that make the watch look busier than a cat in a room full of laser pointers. It’s like someone took all the best parts of different watches, shoved them into a blender, and then served up this delightful horological smoothie.

And just when you think it couldn’t get any better, there’s the date display, which circles the dial like a cat eyeing a fishbowl. If you ever get bored (unlikely), you can spend hours watching the date hand tick its way around the perimeter. It’s like having a tiny, sophisticated carousel on your wrist—minus the circus music and overpriced popcorn.

Chronograph Chaos and Moonphase Magic


If you’re the type who likes to measure time down to the second, or if you just enjoy pressing buttons, the chronograph function will be your new best friend. The pushers on the side of the case are satisfyingly clicky, like the world’s most luxurious fidget spinner. One moment you’re timing your morning coffee brew, and the next you’re calculating how long it takes your cat to knock over everything on your desk. 

Then there’s the moonphase display—a feature that’s either completely useless or utterly fascinating, depending on whether you’re an astronomer or a werewolf. Personally, I find it charming, in a “why not?” kind of way. The moonphase is tucked away in a subdial at 6 o’clock, staring up at you like a miniature night sky. It’s perfect for those nights when you’re wondering whether it’s a full moon outside, but can’t be bothered to look out the window.

Bracelet and Build: A Lesson in Overengineering

The bracelet is a thing of beauty—or a medieval torture device, depending on your wrist size. Made of stainless steel, it’s as shiny as a disco ball and almost as attention-grabbing. The links are polished to a mirror finish, which means you can check your reflection anytime you need to fix your hair or practice your Blue Steel look.



Adjusting the bracelet, however, is a bit like trying to solve a Rubik’s Cube blindfolded. You’ll either get it perfect on the first try (unlikely) or spend the next hour fiddling with the links while questioning your life choices. But once it’s on, the fit is snug, secure, and as comfortable as you could hope for with a watch that could double as a set of brass knuckles.

Speaking of overengineering, let’s talk about the sapphire crystal. It’s anti-reflective and scratch-resistant, which is a fancy way of saying it’s tougher than your ex’s heart. You could probably use it to fend off a small army of ninjas, though I wouldn’t recommend testing that theory—ninjas are notoriously unpredictable.

The Movement: A Tiny Orchestra of Perfection

Now, let’s get under the hood and talk about the movement, because the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono isn’t just a pretty face—it’s got brains, too. The L678 automatic movement is the kind of thing that makes watch enthusiasts swoon and non-watch enthusiasts scratch their heads in confusion.

It’s a self-winding mechanical movement, which means it runs on the power of your own wrist movements. It’s like having a tiny orchestra inside your watch, playing a symphony every time you flick your wrist. The power reserve is a solid 48 hours, which is perfect for those weekends when you decide to wear something else and then immediately regret it.

The movement is visible through the exhibition case back, so you can watch the gears turn and the magic happen. It’s mesmerizing, like watching a tiny Swiss ballet where everyone is always in sync and nobody ever drops the ball—unlike your last group project in school.

Timekeeping Accuracy: Close Enough for Government Work

In terms of accuracy, the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is about as reliable as your grandmother’s cooking. It might not win any COSC certifications, but it’s good enough that you won’t miss the bus—or the rocket launch, for that matter. Expect it to run within a few seconds per day, which is close enough unless you’re timing a space mission. And let’s be honest, if you’re timing a space mission, you probably have bigger problems than whether your watch is a few seconds fast.

Final Thoughts: A Watch with a Personality (and Maybe a Bit of an Ego)

So, what’s the verdict on the Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono? Well, it’s a watch that knows exactly what it is: a statement piece with a side of functionality. It’s the kind of watch that would walk into a party and immediately start telling everyone about its fascinating subdials, and you’d still want to hear every word because it’s just that charming.

It’s not a watch for everyone—especially if you prefer your timepieces simple and understated. But if you’re the type who enjoys a bit of flair, a dash of complexity, and a whole lot of Swiss craftsmanship, then this might just be your perfect match.

Sure, it might be a bit flashy, a tad overcomplicated, and maybe even a little too proud of itself—but aren’t we all, deep down? The Longines Master Collection Moonphase Chrono is a watch with personality, and in a world of bland, cookie-cutter timepieces, that’s something worth celebrating.

So, strap it on, adjust those pushers, and get ready to tell time in style. And who knows? Maybe, just maybe, you’ll find yourself timing the perfect moment to show off that moonphase display. After all, what’s life without a little lunar lunacy?

Challenge: Name me a higher-value Swiss watch with the number of complications! 


Friday, March 29, 2024

A Modern Take on a Vintage Masterpiece: The Tissot Heritage Navigator

Did I need to buy this watch? No! Was it a moment of weakness? Hell yes! Do I regret the purchase? Absolutely NOT! LOOK AT IT! My fellow watch lovers (or soon-to-be watch lovers) let me introduce you to the Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary COSC!



I know, I am a little late with this review, but hey! I only got the watch in August 2023 so I gave myself 6 months to truly get an appreciation for this watch! 

History and Significance: The Tissot Heritage Navigator Automatic 160th Anniversary COSC pays homage to Tissot's illustrious 160-year history of watchmaking excellence. Inspired by vintage Tissot timepieces, this special edition celebrates the brand's heritage while incorporating modern features and innovations.

Sizing (including wearability on the wrist): The case diameter is 43mm with a lug to lug of 51.5mm. Yes it is big, flat and long (no no no dirty jokes here!). But on my toothpick wrists (shown below) it looks surprisingly good! It is 9.6mm thick which makes it a perfect candidate to slide under your cuff and look seriously classy! So in my opinion: This size makes it suitable for a variety of wrist sizes, offering a comfortable fit without feeling oversized or cumbersome.
Whether paired with a formal suit or casual attire, the Heritage Navigator exudes versatility, effortlessly transitioning from the boardroom to the weekend getaway. Its timeless design and understated elegance make it a versatile accessory for any occasion, adding a touch of sophistication to any ensemble.
Grade: 7.5/10




Movement: Powered by a COSC-certified automatic movement, the Heritage Navigator ensures exceptional accuracy and reliability. This high-precision movement not only upholds Tissot's reputation for precision timekeeping but also reflects the brand's commitment to quality craftsmanship. The see-through case back with the gold-plated rotor only adds to the sophistication and I have caught myself many a time just flipping the watch over and staring at it. I do understand that this watch is around 10 years old but in today's market folks might be turned off by the 40-hour power reserve. 
Grade: 9/10


Strap: The Heritage Navigator comes with a premium leather strap on a deployant buckle, adding to its vintage charm and sophistication. Crafted with attention to detail, the strap ensures both comfort and durability, making it suitable for daily wear. Additionally, its quick-release mechanism allows for easy customization with alternative straps, further enhancing versatility.
Strap: 9/10

Case and Dial: 
At first glance, the Heritage Navigator exudes sophistication with its refined design elements. The 43mm stainless steel case strikes a perfect balance between classic proportions and contemporary aesthetics. The polished finish accentuates the watch's luxurious appeal, while the intricate detailing on the bezel adds a touch of refinement.
The GMT function allows travelers to track multiple time zones simultaneously, making it an ideal companion for globetrotters and jet-setters. The rotating inner bezel, operated by the crown at 2 o'clock, enables users to adjust the city ring, providing quick and convenient access to different time zones. This feature, coupled with the GMT hand, ensures effortless timekeeping wherever your adventures take you. And I must mention here that it has Mumbai and Calcutta on the city ring! Hook line and sinker! I cannot think of another watch at this price point with that dial layout! 
Grade:10/10



Conclusion: In conclusion, the Tissot Heritage Navigator Automatic 160th Anniversary COSC is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of Tissot's enduring legacy and commitment to excellence. With its blend of heritage-inspired design, precision movement, and exceptional comfort, it's a watch that not only tells time but also tells a story—a story of craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless elegance.
Plus I CANNOT stress this enough! My wife said: "It is a different looking watch....".. THAT IS IT!! it is now part of the permanent collection! 
Overall Grade: 35.5/40 

Thursday, February 29, 2024

10,000th Review of the Tissot PRX


I have been told my reviews are too long (how dare you)! so here is my attempt to shorten them and become more to the point and succinct! I will be changing the grading business where each category will be out of 10 and a total score out of 40. And yes, this will be 10,000th Tissot PRX review but I wanted to have a crack at reviewing a truly sentimental watch! 

Sizing (including wearability on the wrist):
This integrated bracelet offering from Tissot has a case diameter of 40mm. Lug to lug is difficult to measure with the solid protruding end links. So if you measure out to the fixed links, it is 50mm. After removing the links it wears very nicely on the wrist so much so that the watch even slides perfectly under a business shirt. Forget lug width. It does not have one! but folks are starting to offer straps. Artisan Straps is one of them (PRX Artisan Straps Link). 
Grade: 8/10

Movement: Yes yes yes it has plastic bits. But millions of PRX (I assume) have been bought and worn and I am yet to see/hear a lot of complaints. I have the version with the Powermatic 80 providing 80h of power reserve with a Nicachron balance hairspring. And this ensures a fairly impressive antimagnetic performance. Simply said the feeling of putting it down on a Friday and then picking it back up on Monday for work and it still ticking away is just AWESOME. Accuracy for the 8 months I have had this watch has also been awesome. It is running on average at +2s/day. I also like Tissot's transparency with the replacement cost of the movement on their website. So total cost of ownership is also calculable.
Grade: 9/10

Bracelet: This is the start of the show for me! You may want to put or buy this watch on a strap, but the watch does NOT work the same without the bracelet. With a butterfly clasp, it is the star of the show just the way it shines when the light hits it. And be it indoor lighting or sunlight, it really elevates the watch into the accessible luxury realm. It is also very comfortable to wear and it does not declare war on your arm hair.
Grade: 10/10 

Case and Dial: The colour of the dial is ice blue and it is the same colour as my wife's dad's first car. No wonder this watch is more on her wrist than mine! Need I say more? OK I will give it a shot. The patterned dial adds depth and texture to the dial that elevates this watch to a new stratosphere. Simple hands and a white date dial make this watch truly a great homage to its 1970s predecessor. Simple text makes the dial look uncluttered (take notes Rolex!). To conclude: clean, simple, and classy.
Grade: 9/10

Overall Grade: 36 out of 40. 
What are your alternatives? Christopher Ward, Rolex OysterQuartz, AP Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus, Nivada Grenchen F77 OR  Zenith Defy Skyline. And I am sure I am missing a few but none of the alternatives are as accessible and look as luxurious and classy as the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80



Saturday, February 10, 2024

The Classiest Tag Heuer Ever!

OK OK OK .. I know this might be a controversial opinion but I am yet to come across a Tag Heuer watch that is as classy, sporty, dressy, and timeless as the Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Calibre 6. Readers beware! this watch is not in production anymore by Tag Heuer. So this is as much a public service announcement as much as it is a plea to Tag Heuer to bring this timeless classic back! 





Let me get the specifications out of the way before I shower this watch with praise and maybe set it up for some either favourable or harsh comments from my fellow watch lovers! 

Reference Number: WAV511C
Water Resistance Depth: 10Bar
Movement: Calibre 6 COSC
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Lug Width: 20mm
Case Thickness: 12mm
Dial Window Material Type: Sapphire Crystal
Dial Diameter: 40mm
Lug to Lug: 47mm
Watch Strap Type: Stainless Steel Bracelet
Dial Colour: Dark Brown

Yes Yes this will be a biased take on the watch! This was the first "serious Swiss watch" (whatever the definition of that is these days) that I purchased after moving back to Australia and developing my watch hobby. To that effect, Vintage Watch Co made this experience an absolute breeze (https://vintagewatchco.com.au/). So to say that my take on this watch is going to be slightly biased is a gross understatement. I will do my best to be objective.

Movement: 
As everyone already knows the movement is the heart of any watch. And the heart that beats in this watch is the extremely robust Calibre 6. Based on an ETA 2895-2, housing 27 jewels, COSC certified and beating at 28,800 beats per hour. It also features Côtes de Genève decorating on the rotor which is mesmerising, to say the least. Well at least for me! The power reserve is approximately 40 hours, which might seem substandard as compared to other watch releases from the past 5 years, but the whole package more than makes up for it! The movement does have hacking and hand-winding features. Unscrew the crown and it pops out and that is the hand-winding position. One more position out and that will help you quick set the date and pull it out to the last position and you can get the hours and minutes (and the seconds dial waits till you are done and patiently waits and doesn't move!)
Grade: A (would be a plus if power reserve was higher)




Case: 
The majority of the case is brushed with some edges and the rim of the bezel is polished, which is home to a sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. The crown guards are pronounced and obvious which then protects a Tag Heuer branded crown, which looks like a tyre. Do not be worried about the texture of the crown, cause it is THIS texture that helps you oh so easily turn screw and unscrew the crown. The tactile feel is just fantastic! The lugs are slightly curved, but they do not add significantly to the profile of the watch due to "all wrist size" friendly dimensions. And that is just half the story. Turn this watch over and you will see a seethrough case back which gives you a peak into the heart of the watch (as mentioned before). There are two separate sapphire windows with a case back which is secured using 6 screws. 
Grade: A+


Bracelet:
The watch that I picked up came with a steel bracelet. The majority of it is polished with alternative centre links being polished (yes yes it's a scratch magnet). The bracelet has plenty of half-links for anyone to get a great fit. If you cannot get a great fit you need a new wrist, not a new bracelet (yes yes too harsh I know). The bracelet has a push-button folding clasp, brushed with the Tag Heuer embossed. The bracelet does taper. 20mm to 17mm at the clasp. That gives it that classy touch. 
Grade: A

Dial: 

The dial is brown with a Circular Guilloche. But that is not even the most mesmerising part of the dial. It is the way that the seconds are displayed that really drew me to this watch. The GT engine-inspired, rotating system makes reading the seconds hand at a glance a breeze. You will find the date window at the 3 o'clock position. That is the only minor flaw of this model, in my eyes. They should have moved the Tag Heuer logo down a few millimetres and put the date window at the 12 o-clock position. The symmetry of the dial then would have been simply perfect. There is a bit of text on the dial, but it does not feel over the top. Grand Carrera Calibre 6 are written in 3 different fonts and sizes, followed by an automatic chronometer and is officially certified below the seconds display. It is just enough without being over the top (unlike the thesis that Rolex write on their submariner dials!). If you want to get a watch for the lume, this is not the one for you. It is poor on the best of days. It is a minimalist design for all occasions for sure!  
Grade: B+

Overall grade: A minus (the date position and the lume)

That is my grade. Does that matter? Absolutely NO! My wife is NOT a fan of this watch. It is barely passable for her! Does anyone else find that relatable? 


Sunday, February 14, 2021

A Homage Watch to fall in love with: Pagani Design PD-1667

SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY PAGANI! 

The word "design" in the name Pagani Design is a bit of a misnomer. Established in 2012, Pagani Design is located in Guangzhou off the coast of China facing the South China Sea. Their value proposition stems from photocopying all of the marketing material of Rolex, Tag Heuer, and Omega among other luxury brands, and offering their customers spec monsters at a fraction of the price. 

The Pagani Design PD-1667 is a homage to the No Time to Die Omega Diver 300M- Co-Axial Master Chronometer 42 MM Ref Number 210.90.42.20.01.001. And the similarities are fairly obvious. A little peak at the images placed below should be a giveaway. The recommended retail price of Omega in Australia is roughly $AU14,000 on the mesh bracelet. I feel this is an important point that should be noted, given that almost all other seamasters can be purchased for <$AU8000


The watch arrived Friday (12th February) and I have worn it for 2 days non-stop (did not even take it off before I went to sleep). But before I breakdown my experience thus far, let's have a look at the specifications of the PD-1667:

Model Number: PD1667
Water Resistance Depth: 10Bar
Clasp Type: Folding Clasp with Safety
Movement: Japan Seiko NH35A
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Feature: Shock Resistant, Auto Date, Complete Calendar, Water Resistant, Swim, Luminous Hands
Lug Width: 20mm
Case Thickness: 14mm
Dial Window Material Type: Sapphire Crystal
Dial Diameter: 42mm
Lug to Lug: 49mm
Watch Strap Type: Fitted Rubber Strap
Bezel Material: Ceramic plus liquid metal
Luminous Material: Super-LumiNova
Watch Case: 316L stainless steel

The movement is the heart of all watches. The PD-1667 is powered by the Japan Seiko NH35A movement. It's one of the world's most popular movements which are used by multiple microbrands. It is basically the unbranded version of the Seiko caliber 4R35 movement and boasts a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Although it is rated at -20 to +40s per day, mine is running at a more than acceptable -10s/day. I have set it to +3 minutes and I am all set for the next 20 days! For all my felow engineering/watch nerds, you can find more information about this movement here.

Housed in a full 316L stainless steel construction with sapphire glass with a screw-down crown (giving it a rating of 100m of water resistance), transparent case back, the price tag of ~$170 is really stretched thin across all of these features that are packed into this monster of a watch. There is a tad bit of joy associated with just holding your watch and rotating it in your hands and having a look at all parts of the movement. And at this price point, it is a great feature of the watch.

The minute and the hour hand follow the skeleton design of the Omega with a lollipop seconds hand. The dial is black but it has a rough texture to it. All the text on the dial is printed on including the Pagani Design logo, Automatic, the water resistance rating, and the fact that its heart is a Japanese movement (Japan Movt at the 6'o clock marker). It has the single batons at 6 and 9 o'clock positions with a double baton for the 12'o clock marker. All of this is topped off by the very classy, elegant, and simple date window. This date window starts transitioning into the next day at around 10:30pm and over a period of 90 minutes ticks over to the next day. The polished finishing of the case and the sides of the bezel make this watch a real head-turner.

(Screenshot from YouTube Video)

I bought the PD-1667 on a fitted rubber strap. It looks brilliant and it just feels amazing on the wrist. Very snug and comfortable fit and even when I am out and about in 35 degrees Celcius with 75% humidity (I live in Brisbane) and was sweating my ba*** off. But it is fairly difficult to size the strap. The strap into the clasp is a very (very) tight fit and I hope that you can size your write and use the correct hole with your first go! Needless to say, I didn't, and took me more than 5 minutes to resize it. The Pagani Design printed logo on the clasp is a nice and classy touch.


The bezel is one of the prettiest features of the watch. It is a 90 clicks unidirectional bezel with a ceramic insert painted with a brownish fauxtina. The sounds of the clicks are very crisp and I plan to use it constantly when I time by timeboxed activities at work or at home every day. On closer inspection, the bezel appears to be very clean with a quality finish, including the brushed finish on the metallic surfaces. However, there is "one marker" worth of play in the bezel. This play, however, enables me to perfectly align the bezel with the minute markers. So silver lining I guess.

The lume is fairly impressive. The minute markers and the hands stay lit up for close to 15 minutes after I come back home from my daily walks. That is fairly impressive as watches that are an order of magnitude dearer does not have lume that lasts this long.

1-year warranty means nothing. If the watch took 6 weeks to get here, I cannot imagine going through the pain of exercising my rights that a warranty affords me given the current climate. If anything does go wrong, you are better off just getting a new NH35A movement into the watch or getting yourself new spring bars and fitting it in yourself or at your local watch repair store (Mr. Mint for my fellow Aussies).

There is one thing that would highly recommend everyone to avoid. If you got this beauty of a watch with the fitted rubber strap, the pillows in a low-cost watch box (like the one I have) is not the ideal place to store your Pagani Seamaster. I tried to force the issue and the photo below depicts the fruits of my misguided labor. I do have a toolkit and 25 minutes later, I was able to put the spring bars back into place and resuscitate my purchase.


The packaging is decent (placed below). It included an instruction manual, a warranty card (throw it away! It is of no use), a rectangular "pillow" and a wiping cloth. I was nervous when I initially saw the size of the packaging. I do not trust any handlers to treat packages with any level of care (especially when they have a fragile sticker on them). A single layer of bubble wrap in the box was all that was protecting the watch from death. I guess mine has survived (for now) and I couldn't be happier.


This one set me back $AU172 including multiple coupons from Aliexpress and import taxes. But it was very much one of those buy and forget sort of deals. Do not expect overnight or even a 72-hour delivery window. I ordered this on 1st January 2021 and it arrived on the 12th of February. I wanted to not think about it, but that was nearly impossible. I am a watch nerd and I checked tracking almost every day hoping for progress. But if you can put up with the long delivery times, it is well worth the wait. 

Overall grade: A-

Would I recommend it to a friend? In a heartbeat! I already have and 2 of them are about to purchase a couple of them! Where is my commission, Pagani? 


Chronomaster: For Those Who’ve Outgrown the Horological Daycare

 Ah, the Citizen AQ4080-52L Chronomaster—the horological equivalent of a katana forged in the tears of Swiss watch execs and polished with t...